How To Layer Your Brow Products For Flawlessly Fluffy Arches

Nothing can make or break your beauty look quite like your eyebrows. The shaping trends may continue to fluctuate (seriously, can we all just agree that ultra-skinny brows are never a good idea?) but most of us still desire a pair of full, natural-looking brows. Achieving this particular makeup goal is easier said than done, especially if you've strolled the brow-care aisle at your local beauty supply store. Is it better to use a pencil or a gel? Do you need more than one or two products to keep the hairs in place throughout the day? And what is all this fuss about an eyebrow pen? With dozens of questions around the art of applying your brow products, we turned to Kristie Streicher, a brow microfeathering pioneer and the founder of KS & Co., to learn more.

Instead of diving headfirst into your brow routine without any real planning, Streicher recommends starting your application process with a clear and defined goal for your brows, especially if you're refining the shape or adding thickness. "Sometimes using a photo as inspiration can help avoid shading aimlessly," she says. Reference a selfie where you loved the look of your brows, or turn to a celebrity who has exceptional brow game as a guide. Identify the differences between your brows and what type of tweaks you need to make to your brow shape in order to mimic their arches. Basically, always have a brow game plan.

It may feel a little daunting to take a pair of scissors to your brows, but a carefully executed trim can help refine their shape. As Streicher explains, "When I trim my own brows, I first fill in any areas needed with a pencil. Then I style [my] brows by brushing them up and out, then trim hairs that fall outside my brow shape." She suggests using an eyebrow spoolie brush and a pair of small curved scissors to trim your brows, but don't get overzealous here. Only trim the hairs that protrude past your brow line, and try to trim only one or two hairs at a time, staggering the lengths for a more natural look. "Do not cut the hairs straight across or all at once," says Streicher. "Take a step away from the mirror after trimming a few hairs to avoid overdoing it."

This may seem like a simple concept, but the reality is that you shouldn't always reach for the color that matches the hair on your head if you're filling in your brows. "Choose an eyebrow color that is the same shade as your eyebrow hair color, not the hair on your head, as sometimes it is a different shade," says Streicher. For blondes especially, that may mean trying a shade or two darker than your natural color. Ditto for other hair colors as well. "If you have red hair, use a warm blonde [product]," says Streicher. "If you're blonde, use a taupe or soft, ash brown. Brunettes should use a medium brown and gray or silver foxes should use an ash brown or taupe."

Streicher stresses that you should always stay inside your "brow lines" to keep the shape looking as natural as possible. That means if your brows are already on the thinner side, you can only do so much to thicken them up with makeup. It's more about filling in patchy areas, slightly extending the length, and perfecting the shape, all of which will help your brows look fuller and more refined. Try extending the tail of your brows for a more dramatic look by drawing short hair-like strokes with a brow pencil, like the Revlon ColorStay Brow Fantasy ($12), which also has a dual-ended gel to lock your hairs in place for the day. If you want a tinted gel option, try the KS & Co. Sheer Tinted Brow Gel ($36) after you finish with your pencil. Or if you prefer a pen to achieve ultra fine hair-like strokes, use the Melt Cosmetics Perfectionist Brow Ultra-Fine Pen ($24) to fill in any gaps.

Revlon ColorStay Brow Fantasy

From

$12

$12 at Amazon

Melt Cosmetics Perfectionist Brow Ultra-Fine Pen

From

$24

$24 at meltcosmetics.com

"What I see most often is people aiming for perfection when it comes to their brows," says Streicher. "However, natural looking brows aren't perfect, or even identical." Remember — your eyebrows are sisters, not twins. Streicher suggests stepping away from your magnifying mirror to avoid applying too much product, whether pen, pencil, powder, or gel (gel is always last, just FYI). After all, you never want your brows to look like they were stamped on, especially if making them look natural is the goal. "A little can go a long way when filling in your brows, and it always pays to take a step back and examine before continuing," adds Streicher. "Less is more when it comes to achieving the natural brow look."